Creative Dressmaking At Home

A Sewing Blog


Basic Gray Jacket

Posted on December 25, 2012 at 3:30 PM

This jacket is semi-fitted with princess seams, a stand-up collar, and patch pockets. The sleeves have some poof at the top by way of pleats, and the front has a curved hem. It is made from the Burda Style pattern Steffi. I also added a lining with two roomy slash pockets and lace trim. 

This jacket is the second piece of a three piece suit. The Basic Gray Skirt was the first. The intention here is to have a gray suit that will see a lot of use and will still last a while. So, I took care to slow down and do everything just right. I put in little extras like pockets in the lining, that would make it a joy to wear. 

The pattern was for an unlined jacket. I just used the same pattern pieces to make a lining, with a few changes. I put in a few extra inches down the center back for a pleat, and left the hem allowance off the bottom of the pieces. There was no need to cut out the collar and facing pieces in the lining fabric. I also made the slash pockets (without the welts) to the size I wanted. To see another lined jacket made with an unlined jacket pattern, click here.

A couple of interesting construction techniques were used. The jacket had cute patch pockets that were rounded on the bottom. I wanted the pockets, but these kind tend to make a jacket more casual. I wanted it to be an all-occasion piece. Since my thread was a good match, I top stitched the pockets with a zig zag stitch, catching the pocket edge and the jacket. This way the pocket "melted" into the jacket and did not get the patch look with a "ridge" going around the pocket. 

The other technique I am excited about, and definitely going to use again, is for setting in the jacket sleeves. I saw this one on an episode of Sewing With Nancy. She had a two part series called Jackets For Real People. Instead of using two rows of basting stitches to ease in the fullness, you use a bias cut strip of appropriate wieght fabric. The strip is sewn to the sleeve cap. While you are sewing the strip, pull to stretch it. 

When you are done sewing the strip to the sleeve cap, it pulls in the fullness like a piece of elastic. So when the sleeve is pinned in the arm opening, you stretch it to fit, instead of pulling it in. To tell you the truth, this was the smoothest pair of sleeves I ever set in. I love this method! 

I also put in a sleeve head to support my poof.

Thrifty Tip: I always take out the shoulder pads from worn-out garments before I throw them away, but when I made this jacket, I was fresh out of salvaged shoulder pads. So, I went to the nearest thrift store, walked straight to the dollar rack, and searched for a garment with suitable shoulder pads. The one I found had nice buttons too, all for a dollar. 

Categories: Jackets

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